Letters From A Brawd (Issue #1)

I don’t mean to brag, but I excel in designing vacations in which, upon landing in a different country, of a different time zone, that speaks a different native language, I arrive completely stranded. No matter how far in advance I reserve a hotel, Phil and I inevitably end up standing on a foreign cobblestone street bearing nothing but useless confirmation emails and sleep deprivation.

It began with our honeymoon last June. We decided to go to Athens, figuring nothing celebrates a union better than a protest-ridden city on the brink of seceding from the union. You say walks on the beach and candlelight dinners? I say riot shields and tear gas.

At the airport, I handed a taxi driver the address (Timoleontos Vassou 22) of our destination–a 4.5 star luxury boutique hotel called The Angel Suites. It took the man a while to maneuver the city center, given that many streets were packed with screaming maalox-painted demonstrators. (When we initially drove passed them, in my foreign affairs ignorance I chirped, “Oh look, a street fair.” Hopefully the cabbie thought I just had a very dry sense of humor.)

I wasn’t familiar with Athens but, after a while, it seemed as if we were driving in circles. And why was the driver looking from the hotel information to the buildings and back in confusion?

He pulled the cab to the side of the road in front of a Best Western. “I’ll be back,” the Greek Arnold said with a nervous smile and then hopped out of the cab, taking our email confirmation paper with him. Phil and I looked at each other and shrugged. We had been traveling for 12 hours. Slathered in plane grease and exhaustion, he could have said he just needed to run in and smash some plates and we would have thought it a reasonable pit stop.

Five minutes later he returned, popped his trunk, and removed our luggage.

“Excuse me, sir? I don’t think this is our hotel. Our hotel is called The Angel Suites,” I said.

He again flashed me that nervous smile. “Yes. Talk to the lady. She will tell you.” He dropped our two luggage pieces inside The Best Western and was back in his cab driving away before he finished the sentence.

Inside, The Lady informed us in broken English that this was indeed the correct address, but that the hotel we reserved in August the following year was bankrupted in September. The Best Western replaced it in January and The Angel Suites, The Best Western, and our travel agent all assumed one of the previously mentioned parties would catch us up to speed. It was now June, at 4 am our time, we had been up all night, and had nowhere to stay.

“Well, do you have any room at this inn?” I asked, lip trembling. The Lady did not.

Long story short: After a soggy breakdown in which I whined, “But this is our honeymoon” at a pitch only dogs can hear; a two hour nap on The Best Western lobby sofa; several angry emails to our travel agent; and a spanakopita (spinach and cheese filled pastry); things were sorted out and we really enjoyed the rest of our trip.

A year later, swap a kalimera for a bonjour and a spanakopita for a crepe and Phil and I had some Pepe le Pew style deja vu.

On this trip across the Atlantic, we were scheduled to stay in a woman’s Paris apartment, who we would learn didn’t understand the critical value in being at the apartment when we arrived. We called her from a payphone and were greeted by voicemail. After waiting with our luggage in front of a closed door for fifteen minutes, we went forth to find Internet, thinking maybe she emailed us about being late.

Manhattan is designed like college campuses with Emergency Call Boxes– from any given Starbucks, a caffeine seeker can locate her next source of skinny vanilla lattes. I hoped Paris had been inspired by our ugly consumerism, so we dragged our luggage down the street, searching for a Starbucks, American’s favorite Wifi hot spot.

Voila! A Starbucks! Oh, but the Internet is broken today. Where is the nearest Internet cafe? Around the corner! Magnifique! Oh, but it’s closed.

Feeling desperate, I walked into a small hotel across the street from the Internet cafe. Behind the desk sat a woman with a bun tied so tight that I worried, if undone, her face might fall off.

“Excuse me, do you have Internet here?”

“Yes. But only for customers.”

“I have nowhere to go. I need to get in touch with the person I’m staying with. Can I pay you to use the Internet for ten minutes?”

“No. There is Internet across the street.”

“It’s closed.”

“So?”

“Okay well, do you have any room here?”

“No.”

Madame Meanie needed to pull the baguette from her basket.

We dragged our feet back to the apartment. Still no answer.

A woman with a cloud of white hair appeared from nextdoor. She said something in French, we said something in English. She motioned inside of her apartment. Peeking into the doorway, we found a dog the size of a small horse and enough clutter to qualify her for a segment on A&E. We smiled and said merci but no merci. We’d rather not be murdered.

Having failed our journey to find Internet, we embarked on a separate but similar quest for a telephone. This odyssey ended half a block away at a hostel masquerading as Practic Hotel, which I assume was short for practically a hotel.

We walked into the dark lobby and, behind a mahogany desk, sat a thirty-something man who looked like a spy movie villain that was fated to be outwitted.

“Excuse me, do you speak English?”

“Yes.”

“Would it be possible to use your phone?”

“Yes, but you must first wait,” he said, as this were obvious and we had just violated hotel policy. He gestured into a room across the hall, where we found a bored looking bald man sitting in an uncomfortable chair. We rolled our luggage across the hall and…. waited.

The doomed villain shuffled some papers around. He looked out the window. He tapped his fingers on the desk. A smudge caught his eye, and he polished it with his sleeve. He glanced at his watch.

“Okay, come in,” he said, and the bald man did. (We would come to find that this was the villain’s signature move. No matter how simple our question, he would find some pencils to organize so that we could spend our due time in the waiting room before he answered it. Talk about a Napoleon complex.)

Long story short: We called the apartment owner again and again got voicemail so, with nowhere else to go, we spent the night at the Practically-a-Hotel Hotel. We schlepped our luggage up five flights of a winding staircase and slept in a room big enough for a king size bed and nothing more, equipped with a bathroom so tiny that my knees banged against the wall when I sat on the toilet.

I regress into a tired child when exhausted by travel. Everything around me looks yucky, but all is better after a nap and a snack. After we passed out in the Pratic Hotel and woke up to have a crepe, the apartment owner reached us and the issue was resolved the next day. The rest of our week was a prixe fixe meal of romance slathered culture served with a side of nutella.

In conclusion, I now know myself well enough that, when planning a vacation, I need to double book for the first night, or at least pack a waterproof sleeping bag fit for an international alley.

Return of the Parodical Daughter

For the two of you who have been wandering through life as if through a dark hallway, lost, tapping the walls so as not to fall down the stairs, unsure what to do or where to go without the weekly light of my narrative voice– open your eyes. I’m back.

I know, I should have warned you so that you might have had the opportunity to develop some sort of blog patch to ease the cravings/twitching. Alas, in this era of google and yellowpages.com, I couldn’t have risked some superfan out there discovering that I was away for three weeks and  breaking into my apartment to help him/herself to my Friends DVD box set and a half-eaten bag of (now) stale pretzels. Can you imagine the harrowing return to a home without a laugh track or salted snack food? The thought is too painful; it makes me want to lie down with a sitcom rerun and a bag of chips right now….

And for my one friend (who shall remain nameless) who relies on my postings to occupy him (and, I’d like to think, to inspire him) while he’s on the JON, well, I hope I didn’t leave you hanging.

Readers, I missed you too. Whenever something funny happened–when a traveler lunged for his luggage on the baggage claim conveyer belt as if the area was under fire and he was protecting his child with his own body– I wanted to tell you about it. When I ordered a panna cotta in such an awful Italian accent that the waiter thought I requested a pina colada, I wished you were there.

Please don’t pretend that you didn’t even notice I was gone. You don’t have to hide your hurt beneath a mask of indifference. That’s unfair to both of us. And, look, I brought you souvenirs. For the next two weeks, I’ll regale you with trifling anecdotes of my largely uneventful travels. You’ll see, it’ll be like we were never apart.

What? You don’t know if you’ll be able to tear yourself from the July issue of Bacon Busters Magazine? Well that just stings.

(Seriously, that’s a real magazine– an Australia periodical delivering you the hottest in hog hunting since 1961.)

My Pre-Cana Questionnaire

My friend was recently telling us about the 156 question standardized compatibility test he and his fiance were required to take by their parish as part of a pre-cana course. The questions encompassed topics including finances, sex, lifestyle expectations, and gender roles. Inspired by this, I decided to design my own pre-cana quiz that I believe can evaluate a couple’s suitability in only 15 questions. Feel free to apply this questionnaire to your own relationship– unless of course you are already married and aren’t in the mood for bad news.

1) Do you and your partner watch the same television shows? If not, are they scheduled at different times? If not, are you willing to invest in Tivo?

2) Do either you or your partner enjoy cooking? If the answer is no, are either you or  your partner willing to pay the other to perform this service in the currency of massage or dish cleaning? (This question can be applied to dusting and sweeping as well)

3) Are you and your partner comfortable sleeping in the same temperature? If not, have you made the necessary precautions by providing the colder one with flannel pajamas and a blanket reserve?

4) Do you and your partner both enjoy lying on the beach doing nothing? If one of you does not, can that individual entertain him/herself without nagging me, I mean, the other person, about being bored?

5) Can you and your partner finish a gallon of milk in a week? If the answer is no, will you take the gamble and buy that gallon and end up dumping the excess sour milk week after week, or will you relent and go with the half-gallon?

6) Have you and your partner evaluated the closet space in your future habitation? If there is not room enough for both of your clothes, have you secured a dresser for the man’s less important wardrobe?

7) Can one of you iron? Do you know which of your clothes will melt upon application of direct heat?

8) If you are planning on having children, do either of you think it’s acceptable to allow a child to run around Starbucks screaming while neighboring consumers are quietly trying to write a blog?

9) Speaking of coffee, do you and your partner both enjoy the same brand of beans? If one of you drinks Dunkin Donuts and the other Starbucks, have you already registered for two coffeemakers to keep on opposite sides of the kitchen?

10) If one of you is lactose intolerant but still insists on eating ice cream once in a while, does the other person have a sense of smell?

11) If one of you is an impassioned Democrat and the other a right-winged Republican, have you already cancelled the wedding?

12) If you are a dog person, have you asked your partner if he/she likes cats? (The answer may surprise you.)

13) If one of you likes meat on pizza and the other does not, do both of you realize that even doing half-meat makes the entire pie taste like sausage?

14) If one of you is a stingy tipper, has the other perfected the art of leaving extra money on the table when the cheapo goes to the bathroom?

15) Oh yeah, and are either of you employed? Do you share the same religious beliefs? Have you discussed family planning? Do you like your in-laws? blah blah blah